Hello Evan,
Thank you for sending in this early wristwatch to mearto.com for an appraisal. I shall try to help you with that today.
TITLE:
Gent’s, manually wound, Art Deco, wristwatch with wire lugs and fancy dial, unsigned on dial and movement, case made by George Bryan & Co. (c.1905 - c. 1950), silversmiths of Great Hampton Street, Birmingham, England, and the watch made in Switzerland, circa 1922.
DESCRIPTION:
Case: This is a 29mm diameter (not counting the winding crown), Sterling silver, two leaf, octagonally-shaped watch case with fluted crown and snap on round case back cover, the latter hinged to the case much like a pocket watch. The barrel of the case carries an import mark, a triangle. The interior of the cover indicates that “B G & Co.”, each letter in a separate cameo represents the casemaker, George Bryan, a silversmith initially active in the Standard Works of Birmingham then forming his own business in the city of Birmingham, England and the business operated from 1905-1950. Below are English markings from Birmingham: a triangular import mark, the quality of the silver is 0.925% which is Sterling silver and the letter 'X', which at the Birmingham assay office represented the year 1922.
Dial: A fancy Art Deco type dial with circular guilloche work in the dial center, a roman hour chapter ring in circular cartouche form and a closed bar minute track to the outside. The hands are original and blued steel skeletonized “Lozenge” hands. The dial is unsigned.
Movement: This is a fairly typical Swiss made movement seen during the 1920’s. It is unsigned by the maker. This is a bridge-plate movement made of damascened nickel. The half plate is signed, Swiss Made” and has exposed ratchet and crown wheels, a center wheel bridge marked, “fifteen jewels”, and a small damascened nickel finger bridge. There is a bimetallic balance wheel for temperature compensation and a Swiss made index regulator for making the movement faster and slower.
The regulator is marked in both English and French initials for faster and slower.
CONDITION:
Case – A good deal of silver oxidation has occurred and there are rust spots on parts of the case.
Dial – Complete and legible, missing most of its red Roman numeral twelve.
Movement – As mentioned previously this is a fairly typical Swiss movement seen in the 1920’s and has a resemblance to the Aigler movements that were made in Rebburg, Switzerland for Rolex except they were more finely made and often were more highly jeweled. (Aigler joined the Rolex firm circa 1925-1927, but before that made movements for the Swiss watch industry.)
Overall condition is fair.
https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/68986947_art-deco-medana-sterling-and-enamel-ladies-wristwatch (sold for $100 in 2019)
https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/87910209_1920-s-sterling-silver-trench-wrist-watch (sold for $120 in 2020)
https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/62549808_vintage-longines-sterling-silver-wristwatch-circa-1920s (sold for $110 on 2018)
https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/37128392_56003-rolex-early-sterling-wristwatch-circa-1920-s (A sterling silver Rolex sold in 2015 for $900)
PRICING:
It is a very interesting wristwatch and quite early as such things go. Unfortunately it is not signed and that hurts the value along with its rough condition.
I think if offered on the watch market today in its current condition, it would have a fair market value in the range of $125-$150, mainly because of the known casemaker, and interesting Art deco dial.
I hope this has been of help to you in explaining the wristwatch you submitted. I enjoyed seeing and examining it for you. Thank you for the fine photos.
Thank you for using Mearto.com for the appraisal.
My best,
David