Framed Antique Zardozi Goldwork Embroidery Border with Dabka Coils on Net Backing
23 January 2026
Description

Description from grok, I don't know anything! This framed textile artifact is a narrow, elongated border strip featuring intricate Zardozi-style goldwork embroidery, measuring approximately 25 inches in length and 2.5 inches in width. Total width including frame is 7 inches. The piece is mounted on a cream or off-white mat within a gold-toned wooden frame with ornate beaded edging, preserving it under glass for display purposes. The primary decorative technique employs dabka (coiled metallic springs) and related Zardozi elements, utilizing fine, hollow, tubular wires—likely gold-plated silver or copper—tightly coiled and hand-stitched to form raised, three-dimensional motifs. These include repeating floral rosettes, petal-like loops, vine tendrils, and chevron or zigzag patterns that cascade vertically along the strip's center, creating a symmetrical, rhythmic design reminiscent of Mughal-era Persian and Indian influences. The metallic coils exhibit a warm golden sheen with areas of subtle tarnish or oxidation, manifesting as darker iridescent patches (e.g., greenish-black hues), which suggest age-related wear or exposure, potentially dating the piece to the late 19th or early 20th century, though modern reproductions cannot be ruled out without material testing. The embroidery is executed on a translucent, hexagonal mesh net base—consistent with bobbinet or tulle-like fabric—composed of twisted, multi-ply fibrous threads (possibly silk or cotton) that provide a lightweight, flexible foundation, allowing light to pass through and enhancing the metallic elements' luminosity. Beneath this net lies a denser plain-weave backing layer, visible in close-ups as interwoven yarns with a yellowish tint and fuzzy texture, offering structural support typical in traditional Zardozi construction to prevent sagging under the weight of the metallic work. Color contrasts observed include the dominant gold tones of the coils, which align closely with standard 18-22k gold jewelry hues (as compared to a reference gold necklace in images), juxtaposed against the pale, neutral base for a shimmering, opulent effect. No visible beads, sequins (salma), or additional embellishments like pearls are present, focusing the design on pure metallic threadwork. The overall motif evokes traditional South Asian garment borders, such as those from saris, dupattas, or ceremonial shawls, possibly detached and framed as a collectible. Condition appears good for its presumed age, with no evident fraying, tears, or significant discoloration in the fabric base, though the sealed frame limits tactile assessment. Potential provenance points to Indian, Pakistani, or Persian artisanry, given the style's historical roots in the Mughal courts, but without labels, markings, or family history, this remains speculative. From me: The first few images have a silver bracelet and gold necklace on the glass to show color contrast. I tried to zoom in on some of the darker areas to provide information on why it was darker. The company that framed the piece is no longer in business and the frame is sealed, I am not comfortable opening it.

Dimensions

25.75 inches by 7 inches

Acquired from
Online Auction
For sale
Yes
Answered within about 21 hours
By Delia
Jan 23, 21:35 UTC
The specialist needs more information

Hi William,

Thank you for contacting Mearto with your appraisal inquiry.

Would it be OK with you if I showed your photos of this framed textile to a textile historian I know who is a specialist in Middle Eastern and South Asian cultures? It won't cost additionally for the expertise and/or second opinion but it might take longer than the 48 hours we are *usually* able to complete appraisals within.

Thanks to confirm at your convenience,
Delia

William young Jan 24, 10:18 UTC

Thank you for your help Delia,
Yes, i would appreciate the help! Don't worry about the usual time, the accuracy is more valuable to me!
Thank you for all your work!
William

William young Jan 24, 10:19 UTC

Also, if you need more/better pictures, please let me know what you are needing.

Delia Jan 24, 20:58 UTC

Thanks - I've sent off some photos and will let you know if I need additional images.
FYI both me and the person I've reached out to are in parts of the US that may be impacted by Storm Fern - as are you if you're in VA - so there may be some additional storm-related delays but I wanted to let you know I'd started working on this and will provide an answer as soon as I have one.
Delia

William young Jan 24, 22:46 UTC

Thanks so much Delia, I hope the storm is not too bad for you!!

Do you have a similar item and want to know how much it’s worth?

Communicate directly with a qualified specialist and get a fair market valuation of your item, typically in 48 hours or less.

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