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Vintage 1957 Unlabeled Dior "Verline" Red Cocktail Party Dress
Hello, I thrifted this dress about 7 years ago from a Philadelphia thrift store. Years later, I was watching Doris Raymond's "The Way We Wore" and realized the dress depicted in that episode was similar to mine. The dress can be seen here around the 11:00 minute mark:https://youtu.be/97GZ0GuiRa4?si=potX18BfuxVYiKcu. The episode takes place in a town about an hour away from where I live, In New Hope. I looked up more information on the dress that was sold on "The Way We Wore" via Charles A. Whitaker Company auctions, as depicted within the show. When I compared that dress to the one I have, I found it was a match. Please see the listing for the 2012 auction here: https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/13702654_unlabeled-christian-dior-party-dress-1957. It sold for $8,000 in 2012. I looked in Giroud and Van Dorssen's "Dior" as well and the dress was a match. I reached out to Doris Raymond of "The Way We Wore" and she suggested this was an example of prêt-à-porter, ready to wear sold or commissioned through a high end store. I was told by an online vintage forum that some of the seams have couture pickstitching such as the one along the zipper while others do not. Here is the dress again in the National Gallery of Victoria in Australia: https://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/explore/collection/work/127959/ I am including pictures of the one in my possession. It is identical to the one sold in 2012, except it is red (not black), the rosette is missing, and there is only a sliver of a tag where the tag in the auction listing was. The inner corset has been removed, just as the one sold in the Whittacker auction. It is in good condition, some seams need mending and petticoat should be repaired. I have not attempted to clean or steam the dress. The dress is made from red silk taffeta, has an off the shoulder neckline with wired and pleated shoulder cape that tapers to V-neck. There are graduated pleats expanding from the center back seam, pinched below the hip and inset at front zipper to form panniers and bubble skirt, taffeta underskirt with wide horsehair bands.
Bust: 36, Waist: 26, Hips: Free, Shoulder to hem: 40 inches
Secondhand Store
Yes
Hi Amanda,
Happy holidays and thank you for contacting Mearto with your appraisal inquiry.
I agree with the assessment you received from Doris Raymond, that this was probably a customized or pret-a-porter dress.
Dior continues to be a popular line among vintage couture collectors and I'm certain this dress would bring prices comparable to what the black one brought in 2012, though some would argue black is a more widely collected and wearable color. If you notice in that auction, the estimates ($2,000-3,000) were quite a bit lower than the final price of $8,000 but quite appropriate for this dress.
Based on the photos and information provided, and subject to examination, this is:
A vintage Christian Dior "Verline" red silk taffeta cocktail dress
1957
Made from red silk taffeta, with an off the shoulder neckline, wired and pleated shoulder cape terminating in a V-neck; graduated pleats from the center back seam, pinched below the hip and inset at front zipper to form panniers and bubble skirt, the taffeta underskirt with wide horsehair bands.
Unlabeled
Bust: 36, Waist: 26, Hips: Free, Shoulder to hem: 40 inches
CONDITION: The inner corset has been removed, the rosette is missing, and the dress retains a sliver of its original tag.
PROVENANCE: Acquired from a thrift store in Philadelphia
$ 2,000-3,000*
*represents a fair-market value for auction purposes; retail or asking price may vary.
Please let us know if you have additional items to appraise, or questions/concerns, and thank you again for using Mearto.
~ Delia
